Top 166 Quotes & Sayings by Famous Surfers

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

One thing you learn from surfing is how to operate in the present. It's really what the surfing experience is all about.

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

Surfing is all about uncertainty. That feeling of taking a risk, that leap of faith every time I jump into the ocean, that paddle out among things unseen — all of these make surfing very special

There are so many people out there who will tell you that you can't. What you've got to do is turn around and say "Watch me."

You can always work harder and we are capable of extraordinary things.

I think it's just really made me appreciate life more. I've known people die before that and I was really rattled by it but when it hit so close to home ... it was just so different. I just thought about what I really wanted to do. I want to be a pro surfer and that's what I'm going to do.

I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into the oblivion.

I do feel a kinship for sure. I admire those guys who've won hat-tricks like Andy, and obviously Kelly who's won seven, that's amazing stuff. I think the average surfer thinks it's amazing. The guys who win our championships, they're so amazing.

When I was 14 years old, I literally just had to cut off all my ends because I was just a frizzball from the sun, like I absolutely killed my hair. So from that day on, I had leave-in conditioner stuck to me 24/7.

They come out of nowhere, instantaneously materialize and just as quickly they break and vanish. Chasing after such fleeting mirages is a complete waste of time. That is what I choose to do with my life.

I am only serious about 20% of the time; one of the great joys of my life is the fact that I alone know when that is.

Stop worrying about what you don't know. Focus instead on what you already know even if they don't add up to much. Because you never know what you can achieve with what you already know until you take actions!

It's a long year, and there is going to be ups and downs, but you just have to take the positives and be patient.

It’s a waste of time to be bummed on something, considering the amount of time that we have in this world.

If in doubt, paddle out.

You can't be one of the best freesurfers and a world champion.

Thinking of holding back is blowing it more than pushing your hardest and falling.

Waves are toys from God.

You have to transfer your success on the track to your education, because you don't want to waste what you did athletically once your athletic career is over.

I just like the idea of trying something that no one's ever tried before, and I really wanted to know if it was possible.

Breaking a dream board is almost like breaking up with your girlfriend. You are super shattered at first. But then once you get another dream board, it's all good.

It's such a huge playing field, especially with the wind and shifting tides and only three women out. It's almost like you are fending for yourself out there.

It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.

There is not one right way to ride a wave.

We all strive to find something unique and special that we are passionate about that separates us from the rest.

You have to decide what level you want to participate in your children's lives. The more you do, the better your relationship is going to be. You have to listen to your instincts. You know when it's time to lay down the law.

In an industry that has the capacity underutilization that we have, why wouldn't we? It's just common sense. Apparently they're successful (in Canada). Our standard approach is not to cookie cut things. Every market is different, every theater is different. The devil's in the details.

I think I'm getting wealthy in ways that don't count at the bank.

California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.

As you get older your hair just starts getting a bit darker which makes me sad. So I probably need to surf more.

Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life!

You've always got to be aware of why you don't win; otherwise you'll keep losing. Every mistake is a learning experience and, hopefully, you won't make the same mistake again.

There's not much that doesn't get me stoked.

If you are doing what you love then you're doing what is right. Desire and passion resonate with your body, mind and soul. When you're passionate you don't question, judge, criticize, second-guess, or doubt. It's that passion that will fuel the fire to overcome challenges.

Surfers are members of a different race of people from the man in the street

I'm starting to believe that part of the solution regarding the devices is that they have a role to play in engaging the customer and keeping our product in front of them during the pre-show. They certainly have a role to play in ticket sales. Inside the movie auditorium, though, during the feature presenation there's no place for them. Every single weekend two out of the top three reasons people contact us are: somebody's being disruptive, with a device most of the time, or a dirty bathroom.

I don't believe in lowest common denominators. Our focus has been on delivering value. We're rarely going to be the cheapest theater in a market. We strive to be the best.

Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.

Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.

Sometimes things just happen. Sometimes surfing this bank from Snapper to Kirra, sometimes you don't even think what you're doing but you do it anyway ... You get to the end of a wave and go, what did I do? Sometimes you go into a totally different state of mind.

Across all countries and cultures surfers are connected not by nationality, religion, politics, age … but by their experience riding waves. This is a powerful experience both in the waves themselves and inside each surfer.

I can be surfing the exact same wave and then sometimes something will just set off, even if I'm riding the same board the whole time. Something will just set off and it just feels like you can push just that extra bit harder.

There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you're visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.

It's not so much what you do, it's just how well you do it, and that you do, do it.

If you want the ultimate thrill, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price.

All surfers are joined by one ocean.

We are our own worst inhibitors

There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people's happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . .

There's not much that doesn't get me stoked. I love what I do and am so passionate about it that I get stoked on the simplest things - watching the sunrise, walking on the beach, going for a run through the forest or along the coast. One of my all time favorite things is surfing amazing waves with my family and best friends.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

Surfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.

Most men need their wives to need them, and I've seen that lead to their downfall

If we can use technology to shorten the path between intention and action, that excites me.

If there was no such thing as barrels I probably wouldn't even surf.

Waves keep coming, that's the one thing you can count on in life

I haven`t prepared as much as I would like to but it will be fun to get out there again. I have nothing left to prove in surfing but still have the desire to keep going.

If you dont see me on tour, its because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.

I travel by myself a lot. Most of the time I'm by myself.