Top 166 Quotes & Sayings by Famous Surfers - Page 3

Health is survival. But survival with style and class.

It's not tragic to die doing something you love.

As long as I'm still surfing wherever I am, I'll always be happy.

Surfing is attitude dancing.

What gods do you pray to?

I love to be called Doc.

I like the responsive, quick feeling I get out of the Proton, and I am excited to have this board as my model.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

The amount of things you can do with a kettlebell is unsurpassed by any other training equipment - dumbbells, resistance machines, free weights.

Health begets Spirit.

If I can make an economic deal with Amazon that works for them and works for me, OK - I'll make it available. But I don't want to be part of restrictions that make life difficult for my guests.

Already I've bettered my result from Snapper. It's a long year; plenty of the top guys will hopefully have one early exit, and let's just hope Snapper was mine.

The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.

Travel's the great educator, especially for the girls. You can't put a value on it.

God loves happy people.

Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.

It's a cakewalk, when you know how.

Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do. It puts your whole world into perspective.

My hair dries straight naturally, so I'm always trying to find anything to give it volume or give it a little bit of bounce.

Surfing is a deeply wonderful thing – anytime, anywhere and any way

Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

The first time you get a ride on a surf board and you are being propelled along by a wave, it’s probably as close as humans can get to being able to fly like a bird

I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.

The energy that moves across the ocean connects all surfers who ride it.

Sometimes I wish I had every different sort of board that I could just bring out for this surf when I feeling like surfing this board. I love riding old single fins and twin fins.

My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

Health is more than the mere absence of disease, it's the presence of a superior state of well being, a pizzazz, a vitality that has to be worked for each and every day of your life. You cannot get it in a bottle or from Dr. Phil. Its got to be gotten through diet and execise and rest and recreation and attitudes of mind working all together every day of your life and then, young men can become supermen and old men can become older.

We're all equal before a wave.

I'm the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

Getting along with one and other isn't meant to be difficult.

In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.

Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.

In my lifetime, I've met a lot of people who never rode a wave, but we share the same consciousness. Surfing is a kind of a state of mind... I mean, it's a feeling that people have about their life that really, in a way, kind of makes them a surfer.

When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.

Put your hand on your heart and ask yourself, what do I want? The first thing that comes to mind is always the right one.

I still get the feeling I got when I started, that's why I'm still doing it after all these years, I still get that full adrenalin rush before I compete.

I know that if I scare myself once a day, I'm a better person.

Whether any surfer wants to admit it or not, I think we've all had moments like looking at nice waves coming through the lineup maybe, only for a moment, feeling that we are in the presence of something holy. There is a spiritual-ness when you actually get in harmony with something as natural as the waves and the ocean, and yeah, it is definitely a religious experience.

My set comes with a smaller fin in the back, i find this helps me release off the top a lot easier

Everyone gets caught inside when surfing. You have 2 options. Give up or paddle outside. Life is the same. Keep paddling!

I wasn't born a world champion. I just worked really hard to become one.

Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You've got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I've kept winning because I haven't attached myself to past successes.

I've always had a determination to perfect whatever I'm doing. If I can't do something, I work on it until I figure it out.

The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.