A Quote by Ben Howard
I like slightly obscure places, where the waves may not be world class, but you can tie some culture in with your surf trip.
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Every part of me is a surfer. I love surfing, and I love the waves that I surf. So that's the thing that I get excited about most: What kind of waves am I going to be able to surf? Am I going to be surfing alone, or will we be surfing waves that no one's surfed before? Second to that is photography.
I love to surf. Hawaii has some of the best waves in the world, and the most consistent as well. That's always fun.
I don't know a single person in life that doesn't have conflict. I don't really enjoy acting enough to not want to experience something that feels like it really affects things. It's like, if you were a surfer, would you want to surf where there was like two-foot waves, or would you want to surf on like ten-foot waves. To me, the more kind of dramatic stories are more exciting for me, to play with.
It seemed [there are] musical nodes on the planet where cultures meet and mix, sometimes as a result of unfortunate circumstances, like slavery or something else, in places like New Orleans and Havana and Brazil. And those are places where the European culture and indigenous culture and African culture all met and lived together, and some new kind of culture and especially music came out of that.
I realized that a surf trip on a jet can be like a road trip. If you see a road you want to turn down, you can just go there.
I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.
Life comes at us in waves. We can't predict or control those waves, but we can learn to surf
I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural.
Writing is pretty flexible work, don't you think? If you want to surf, you just have to get a lot done when the waves are lousy. That's what I'm always telling myself, anyway - write while the surf's down!
The first thing I do every morning is go online to check the surf. If the waves are good, I'll go surf. The beach is 10 minutes away.
In the same way, you were happy in spring, With the half colors of quarter-things, The slightly brighter sky, the melting clouds, The single bird, the obscure moon- The obscure moon lighting an obscure world Of thing that would never be quite expressed, Where you yourself were never quite yourself And did not want nor have to be.
What the studio didn't understand is that surfing is about a billion times more dangerous than skydiving. They would not allow the boys to skydive, but they allowed us to surf in pipeline in Hawaii. Nine-hundred foot waves. So we're out there in the middle where the greatest surfers in the world surf. They have these long lenses on from the beach, so they can't see anything. They are just shooting our faces in the Point Break.
Do they [the publishers of Murphy] not understand that if the book is slightly obscure it is because it is a compression and thatto compress it further can only make it more obscure?
An ascot is never a substitute for a well-tied four-in-hand tie or a slightly disheveled bow tie.
Every day you're alive, you can change the world. It could be for the better or for the worse. It can be big waves or small waves. The very fact that you're alive and breathing and walking outside, going to class, whatever it is, you're changing the world with each footstep. There's a lot of weight to that.
If you attach your heart to certain places and occupations, obedience oftentimes places you in some other place that you may not like; to be always cheerful, be always humble and obedient.
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