A Quote by Bethany Hamilton
I don't know how long I'll be competing but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.
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I don't know how long I'll be competing, but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.
I've been asked to do surfing movies over the years and offered several opportunities. I just felt that if I were to do one, I'd have to do the perfect surfing movie. And I don't know if that exists because surfing is such a personal thing.
The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.
One thing you learn from surfing is how to operate in the present. It's really what the surfing experience is all about.
Through my surfing, I met all my friends that helped me out in the music world, and so that's kind of how it all began. So, it was the surfing and then the music.
To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.
I come from surfing, and surfing is the worst cool-guy industry of all. I decided long ago to try and kill the cool guy.
I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.
It looks easy, like surfing, but surfing is hard too.
They call it 'surfing' the net. It's not surfing. It's typing in your bedroom
All I care about, to be honest, is surfing. I love surfing more than anything. To me, there's nothing like that.
Surfing frees everything up. It's just the best soul fix. Life should be stress free, and that's what surfing is all about.
Surfing and music have always been two completely separate things in my life, and a lot of people, especially in the UK, don't really get surfing very much. They think it's the Californian dream. They're like, "Oh, so you're a surfer and you're this and that," and it's like, I go surfing because I like the outdoors. In England it's freezing cold, and it's usually dark and raining and it's the middle of winter, and you do it because it's invigorating. It's like going on a walk in some remote place on the planet. It's really - it's not very glamorous.
I want to try doing sportier things, kite surfing and paddle surfing - I think it would give me that extra confidence.
It's the way surfing is - you grow up surfing together, and then you're thrown into a heat at Pipe or a world title bout against one another.
Surfing and climbing are both useless sports. You get to be conquistadors of the useless. You climb to the summit and there is nothing there. And you could hike to the top from another direction. How you get there is the important part. It's the same with surfing.
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