A Quote by Garrett McNamara

Riding big waves was my passion. — © Garrett McNamara
Riding big waves was my passion.

Quote Author

I got desensitized by riding so many big waves that I don't really get a rush anymore.
I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now that feeling is nonexistent.
Across all countries and cultures surfers are connected not by nationality, religion, politics, age … but by their experience riding waves. This is a powerful experience both in the waves themselves and inside each surfer.
Big waves are a whole different ball game. You're riding a wave with an immense amount of speed and power, generally over 10 meters. On the face of the wave, obviously life and death thoughts start to happen.
The best thing you can do is to keep riding your snowboard and love what you're doing. Without a passion for the sport it's difficult to take your riding to the next level.
I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.
Motorcycle riding has been a passion of mine since my 20th birthday, and as a proud member of the American Motorcyclist Association and the Harley Owners Group, I can attest that responsible riding has many unique recreational benefits for millions of Americans.
I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural.
In Nazare, the ocean is known as a place of death, not of riding waves.
I think it's really important for people to have a passion... a hobby... riding horses or climbing or riding motorcycles or whatever it is. It's very good for the soul. And if you can find a soulmate with whom you can share similar experiences with... one who enjoys them as much as you do, then it's kind of a match made in heaven really.
I'm doing a lot of boogie-boarding now. It's actually better exercise, I get a lot more waves, and if I'm out in big surf, I can duck under the waves much easier.
Everything goes in waves. Evolution goes in waves. The ocean goes in waves. Energy goes in waves. Sound travels in waves.
I remember thinking, "Far out, I can't believe this," when I started riding waves. Then I was starting to imagine where it could take me.
What is happening, I think, it's really bigger than psychedelics, it's bigger than human evolution. We are not making the waves in this ocean. We are corks, riding the waves of the ocean. But we are privileged, by perhaps chance alone, to occupy a unique moment in the history of the universe. A moment when the universe goes through some kind of self-transforming, evolutionary, inflationary expansion. That's what's happening.
Horses are not for riding! They do not exist for riding! Horse riding is man's invention! It is the making up of human benefit!
The wind was a torrent of darkness among the gusty trees, The moon was a ghostly galleon tossed upon cloudy seas, The road was a ribbon of moonlight, over the purple moor, And the highwayman came riding-- Riding--riding-- The highwayman came riding, up to the old inn-door.
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