A Quote by Garrett McNamara
I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now that feeling is nonexistent.
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I got desensitized by riding so many big waves that I don't really get a rush anymore.
It's just the most amazing feeling to be out there in the water riding waves. It's like walking on the water.
It's the board I had a problem with. I could totally handle being in the water and stuff. I came here to do my own stunts. Water! Ocean! Action! Big waves! That water, that water has tamed me. You can feel that the world is connected to it.
If one sins against the laws of proportion and gives something too big to something too small to carry it - too big sails to too small a ship, too big meals to too small a body, too big powers to too small a soul - the result is bound to be a complete upset. In an outburst of hubris the overfed body will rush into sickness, while the jack-in-office will rush into the unrighteousness that hubris always breeds.
I started riding bikes when I was really young, but I stopped when I was 19 because my mother asked me too, so I stopped riding for 35 years and now I'm just addicted. It is my only addiction...
The only reason I started swimming was for water safety. Then, once I started falling in love with sports, I got more comfortable with it.
I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural.
Riding big waves was my passion.
I got the big BMW X5, and I didn't like it. It was just too big, and I didn't feel comfortable driving it. It was taking up too much room, and I was afraid I was going to smash into something.
At school I got harassed so badly for being too tall, too thin, too pale - too everything that has gotten me where I am now, which is quite ironic.
A few years ago, when I had no work and started believing that films weren't a viable career, I thought of finding another job. I started training and riding horses and got consumed by that. It was a boon in disguise.
We got the goals early in the game and I thought we just got a little too comfortable with things. They started changing their defense, they started going from a zone defense to a man-to-man and doing different things. We got sloppy, and I give them credit for the way they played. We got sloppy and had some turnovers there. We did have some opportunities, one-on-one with the goalie in the second there, but we need to finish things. They found some momentum in their defense and were able to crawl back in.
I remember thinking, "Far out, I can't believe this," when I started riding waves. Then I was starting to imagine where it could take me.
I started going blind and my optic nerves of my eye started giving me tunnel vision. I also started fainting a bit and struggling to think. I felt a lot of pressure in my head all the time. That was when it got too much. I'm in a very, very fortunate position now where I've had it taken out once. And now it's back I'm being monitored. I think people at home should be checked for this.
It was definitely a big boost when I went into Australia. That's what really got my recognition going. I started scoring. I started feeling a little bit better each game.
As far as the media is concerned, they ought to hate me. Before I came along, they had a monopoly. Before I came along, nationally all there was, was the three networks, the big newspapers, and CNN. When I started in '88, that was it. And now look. That monopoly they had is gone. Now there is Fox News, from 1996. That was nine years after I started. You got all kinds of conservative talk radio out there now. And that's done nothing but grow. I have not lost a single listener because of all the other shows. We've grown the pie, so to speak.
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