A Quote by Garrett McNamara
You know every wave is so different. It just depends on the ride, like when you come down and you don't make the wave and you get blown up and you just feel like so small, but also so alive, because you're at the mercy of this monster and its gotten hold of you and shaking you and rattling you.
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It's rare when you're actually making a movie and it feels like you're watching a movie in the theater. You feel like a surfer in a wave, catching the wave, going for it every time, there's electricity in the room, it doesn't feel like acting, you ride the wave.
When I'm riding a wave and making it, it's just like, 'Alright, yeah, another wave.' But when you're getting pounded and thrown in every direction, when you have no control, you really feel alive.
You know what else I've learnt? That it's all right not to ride the crest of the wave. Every time a wave comes along I retreat, and I haven't come to any harm yet.
I haven't just come up with a hit - I'm not like a one-hit-wonder - I've been here for ages. No one is questioning my ability, so just enjoy the wave, spread the wave.
You've just got to ride the wave of the season and ride the wave of life. You can't get too high and too low.
So many things make me come alive, like when I just finish meditating and I open my eyes and it's as if everything is much clearer. I feel like everything in my body has calmed down, and I feel this sense of joy because I am in touch with what's most important in my life. I also come most alive when I am with my family and closest friends who make me feel recharged just by being with them.
So, when you come down a big wave and everything's perfect, you make it to the shoulder and you kick out. But, when you come down and it closes out or you fall on the way down, then this massive, basically like an avalanche. just lands on you and it feels like a ton of bricks.
I don't feel like music is getting more intense; I think generally the channel for deeper harmonic saturation is not just a sine wave - but a really crunched sine wave. The trend in music is towards a harmonic saturation. I wouldn't say I'm reacting against that. It's just a personal choice to move into some weird space. This also allows me breathing room in the future. It just felt like the right thing to step back on.
Love comes into your being like a tidal wave ... sometimes it withdraws like a wave, till there isn't such a thing as a pool left, and every bit of your heart is as dry as seaweed beyond the wave's reach.
It is as true for individuals as it is for the world itself: everything comes in waves. If you ride the waves of change, you succeed. If you ignore them, you fail. When the wave is down, most people resist it by trying to go up. When the wave goes up, you should go up with it. When it comes down, you go down.
Wave the flag, wave the Bible, wave your sex or your business degree, whatever you want, just don't wave that thing at me.
Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
You know, when I was nineteen, Grandpa took me on a roller coaster. Up, down, up, down. Oh, what a ride! I always wanted to go again. You know, it was just so interesting to me that a ride could make me so frightened, so scared, so sick, so excited, and so thrilled all together! Some didn't like it. They went on the merry-go-round. That just goes around. Nothing. I like the roller coaster. You get more out of it.
I`ve always thought of him [Barack Obama] and from conversations know him to be a guy who takes the long view, who doesn`t get too high, doesn`t get too low and seizes the opportunities when they`re there and knows how to ride the wave. I ascribe that to Hawaii. He`s a body surfer, so he knows how to get on the wave. He knows just the right time.
So I don't know what the world's doing to me at the moment. I'm just on the surfboard. The wave's there, and I'm just going along with it, wondering when the wave's gonna stop and just enjoying the sun.
I can always be reminded how small I am when I try to surf a wave that's a little bit out of my league, and I just get pummeled. And, when your life flashes before your eyes kind of stuff, deep down under the water where you don't know what's up or down, and that kind of thing, or just Mother Nature reminding you how small you are compared to it. That's kind of the main thing for me.
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