A Quote by Katie Lee
Working on my first novel, 'Groundswell' - about a woman recovering from a bad breakup who falls in love with surfing - I spent a month south of the border. And when I wasn't writing or surfing, I was eating. A lot.
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Writing a story is kind of like surfing, as opposed to the novel, where you use a GPS to get somewhere. With surfing, you kind of jump.
All I care about, to be honest, is surfing. I love surfing more than anything. To me, there's nothing like that.
When we first moved to California from Las Vegas, we got into surfing. We figured we should do something to get in shape, but we hate working out. Surfing is definitely a work out.
Every part of me is a surfer. I love surfing, and I love the waves that I surf. So that's the thing that I get excited about most: What kind of waves am I going to be able to surf? Am I going to be surfing alone, or will we be surfing waves that no one's surfed before? Second to that is photography.
I've been asked to do surfing movies over the years and offered several opportunities. I just felt that if I were to do one, I'd have to do the perfect surfing movie. And I don't know if that exists because surfing is such a personal thing.
One thing you learn from surfing is how to operate in the present. It's really what the surfing experience is all about.
I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.
It's for 'Haasil' that finally I got to do a lot of water surfing. Kabir Raichand, my character performs surfing and to do it accurately, I had undergone a crash course in Mauritius.
The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.
Surfing frees everything up. It's just the best soul fix. Life should be stress free, and that's what surfing is all about.
I was picking up surfing, which I also fell in love with. Then I was like, man, to combine the two [free ride and surfing ] would be perfect.
Living in Sydney, I've taken the chance to start surfing again. One of my best memories of growing up is catching my first proper wave and surfing across it and my brother cheering at me from the shore.
A lot of times I'll see guys who are nowhere near the level of the board they're riding. They might love surfing and love how it looks, but you really have to work your way up. It takes eating a little humble pie at first, and stepping back to equipment that might be a bit slow, but do it.
Back in the day, I was the first non-recovering doctor working in recovery. People would say, 'You can't do that! We need recovering guys in this.' But usually recovering doctors have a lot of baggage and so there's a certain amount of liability with a recovering doctor. But of course it can be ideal.
I love kite surfing and mountain bike riding. It's kind of interesting; my kite surfing ability has probably deteriorated with the rate of Kaggle's success.
For me surfing is just something that I love to do. I grew up surfing, is sort of like a family requirement. I can't imagine my life without it. But I am not defined by it, nor is my music. They are very separate.
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