A Quote by Marguerite Moreau
I'm more of like a recreational surfer, not a consist surfer. Some people get out every week or every day.
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I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
We play in the ocean every day but for some reason we don’t make as much noise about the environment as we should. I believe the average surfer needs to do a lot more to become a greater catalyst for change
I'm actually a very bad surfer, which is good because everybody likes a bad surfer. Nobody likes a good surfer.
I'm a surfer. I grew up in Southern California and used to surf twice a day, every day.
I think it doesn't matter if you are the best surfer in the world. I'm going to try to be the best surfer I can be. It's not all about competing and being the best. It's more about having fun and just doing what you love.
I was a surfer so I hung out with people who were surfers and made fun of people who weren't surfers and I listened to surf music and made fun of people who didn't listen to surfer music.
No, 'Point Break' for me - growing up on the beaches of Sydney as a surfer, it was kind of the movie that we watched every week. For me to be Johnny Utah, I'm beside myself.
Fathers and sons are natural enemies. Look at any species. Shark, sees his father in the water, he's not thinking, Hey dad, wassup ? He's thinking, Back off, old man, this surfer carcass is mine. Of course, when his girlfriend swims up and she's like, Way, you know, there's enough surfer for everybody. You and your dad need to frenzy together more. Leave you father a thigh.
I work out six days a week. I do pilates, Bikram yoga and spinning. Every once in awhile, I'll throw weights in. I like to get some kind of cardio in every day, even if it's just hiking.
I'm basically a creature of habit - I do practically the same thing every week, every day of every week: I go to the office, I meet people, I write, I read, and, of course, I give lectures.
It's rare when you're actually making a movie and it feels like you're watching a movie in the theater. You feel like a surfer in a wave, catching the wave, going for it every time, there's electricity in the room, it doesn't feel like acting, you ride the wave.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
I was more of a surfer girl and never really that punky.
As long as I'm in the gym three times a week, I'm happy. I make sure to fit it in. It always depends. I'm not one of those people who goes at the same time every day because my day is so different every day, so it depends when I can get an hour in there, and I'll go.
My mentality is like a samurai they used to train every day, work on their technique to make themselves better, almost perfect, perfection is impossible but every day you get closer and that's what I want . Every day I want to get better than I was the day before. I want to use every second of my life, every time I have in my life to make me a better fighter. It's more than a job it's a way of living.
Most poor people are not on welfare. . . I know they work. I'm a witness. They catch the early bus. They work every day. They raise other people's children. They work every day. They clean the streets. They work every day. They drive vans with cabs. They work every day. They change beds you slept in these hotels last night and can't get a union contract. They work every day . . .
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