A Quote by William Finnegan
Writing is pretty flexible work, don't you think? If you want to surf, you just have to get a lot done when the waves are lousy. That's what I'm always telling myself, anyway - write while the surf's down!
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I need to surf - surf and yoga. Whenever I'm in L.A., I go down to San Diego to surf for the weekend, and I always come back perfect.
I surf - that's the one thing I make time to do. I definitely surf a lot, but when you're working 15 hour days... all I want to do is get home to my baby.
When the surf is really good, it's hard for me to concentrate on work. So I really have to watch when and where I surf - I won't get anything done if I get the fever. Then it's like I come into work and I'm wet and waterlogged and ready for lunch.
Every part of me is a surfer. I love surfing, and I love the waves that I surf. So that's the thing that I get excited about most: What kind of waves am I going to be able to surf? Am I going to be surfing alone, or will we be surfing waves that no one's surfed before? Second to that is photography.
The nice thing about working in surf films so long is becoming part of the surf tribe. Anywhere I go where there are surfers, I get welcomed pretty easily.
The magic that you find in surf music, I think, is really timeless. You know, when I was very young, I was in a surf band. Surf music is an instrumental music that still means a lot to me, not in an nostalgic way, but as something that really gets to the heart of the guitar itself.
I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.
I'm doing a lot of boogie-boarding now. It's actually better exercise, I get a lot more waves, and if I'm out in big surf, I can duck under the waves much easier.
If athletics wasn't an option, I'd probably work at like a surf shop in Hawaii on the beach, just dishing out surf boards.
The first thing I do every morning is go online to check the surf. If the waves are good, I'll go surf. The beach is 10 minutes away.
Three most important things in life, surf, surf and surf.
I don't know a single person in life that doesn't have conflict. I don't really enjoy acting enough to not want to experience something that feels like it really affects things. It's like, if you were a surfer, would you want to surf where there was like two-foot waves, or would you want to surf on like ten-foot waves. To me, the more kind of dramatic stories are more exciting for me, to play with.
I often give this metaphor where I say that writing short fiction is like surfing, while writing a novel is like navigating with your car. So when you navigate with your car, you want to get somewhere. When you surf, you don't want to get somewhere, you just don't want to fall off your board.
What the studio didn't understand is that surfing is about a billion times more dangerous than skydiving. They would not allow the boys to skydive, but they allowed us to surf in pipeline in Hawaii. Nine-hundred foot waves. So we're out there in the middle where the greatest surfers in the world surf. They have these long lenses on from the beach, so they can't see anything. They are just shooting our faces in the Point Break.
I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day jobs, I was working hard on a novel. My third novel, in fact.
I've been soulsearching: why do I do this? Because I don't really get the rush on these waves, and I don't surf for records. It's more to do with my love for Nazare - I want to bring attention to the town.
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