The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
Surfing is not my strong point. And... I don't really have a tan. I go to the tanning place, the one that sprays you with color.
I'm not surfing much anymore, but I love hiking and gardening, and I'm always wearing a hat and sunblock.
Adrian has golf, Tom has surfing, Gwen has Gavin, I guess, and this is all I have - I wake, eat and sleep No Doubt.
I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean.
Surfing waves of water or clouds of powder snow is the best feeling on earth.
I still use quill and parchment. I do e-mails, and I write, but I don't go around surfing too much.
I have to remind the people who put down East Coast surfing that Kelly Slater is from Florida.
Whether it's in America, Quebec, or France, if I can tell a story that takes me out of my comfort zone, then I'm surfing.
I love the ocean and have a passion for surfing, even though I'm not very good at it. I like getting out there and paddling around.
It was like a big family, since so many of us brought our kids. We all went surfing. It was so relaxed and easy.
I lived in sheds, I kipped under bushes, sofa surfing - I went through the whole array of it.
I love the ocean; growing up around Laguna Beach, I spent my summers surfing, diving, and snorkeling.
I'm like a surfer right now. I'm just surfing the wave. Except that I can't swim, so I'm on the board trying to hold on tight.
In the 90s, there was a yahoo factor where there would be 50 people crowd surfing at one time! It was insane, and it had nothing to do with the music.
I grew up surfing. My dad probably put me on a surfboard before I could walk.
When you come out of the ocean after surfing all day, loco moco is the best thing you ever tasted.
With Crazy Horse, it's all one big, growing, smoldering sound, and I'm part of it. It's like gliding, or some sort of natural surfing.
Surfing and trail running chill me out. I like reading, too. And playing my guitar - I wish I were better.
I come to Maui and go surfing, standup paddling, slacklining, swimming, and free-diving.
Both of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.
I've surfed once in the gulf. I wouldn't really call it surfing. It was like an ex-boyfriend pushing me into the waves or something. That was my limited experience.
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
Surfing is like that. You are either vigorously cursing or else you are idiotically pleased with yourself.
I feel my absolute best physically, mentally and spiritually when I'm surfing every day.
I'm not too fond of the typical Australian activities or culture. I'm not into surfing - that's what I'm trying to say.
Surfing the Internet every day has become a habit for many leaders and officials, including myself.
There's really only three things you can write music about: girls, cars and surfing.
I've never been good at meditation, but surfing is the closest I've ever come to that inner something.
Me and Jeffrey Wright were hanging out a lot. We go surfing a fair bit when he's on the West Coast. He's a legend.
Inventing is a lot like surfing: you have to anticipate and catch the wave at just the right moment.
I read a lot of Zen books. And I grew up surfing, so that has always been my escape.
Before I started surfing, I don't even know if I would have dived into the water at night alone. It was still scary.
Life is a wave of creative consciousness rippling through space and time that we have the honor of aesthetically surfing.
When I enjoy my surfing, I get good results, and I've always had fun in South Africa.
I loved going surfing down on Venice Beach. Id go out with a board under my arm and think, I cant do that in Cranhill.
When you have two busy kids running around the house, returning e-mails is a task, let alone surfing the web.
It's funny, 'cause you think surfing is your whole life, but then when you make a family it seems like it's not at all.
I've always had creative freedom. Instrumental rock wasn't really a genre, but the success of 'Surfing With the Alien' legitimized my approach.
I loved going surfing down on Venice Beach. I'd go out with a board under my arm and think, 'I can't do that in Cranhill.'
My problem with L. A. was that I could see the air I was breathing, I don't particularly like crowds, and I was much better at snowboarding than I was at surfing.
I've gotten into surfing a bit. I can't stand up for more than five seconds, but I like the fact that I can paddle out into oblivion.
Everyone gets caught inside when surfing. You have 2 options. Give up or paddle outside. Life is the same. Keep paddling!
Surfing music is dead. It was just a summer craze for kids on the beach. I'm finished with it.
Where I grew up, surfing was a way for people to celebrate their love and respect for the ocean.
You're surfing with all this glamour, and a lot of people are talking about Gwyneth, JLo, and Cameron.
I've been surfing so many years and it's a pretty strong part of my life so I'm not gonna give that up.
Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
I used to not care if I died, but once I married and had children and became part of a big surfing community, that changed.
Interferometry, like surfing, is a search for the perfect wave. But physicists don't have to paddle around and wait.
I love surfing, rock climbing, cycling - all that stuff. But it's just amazing that I can inspire people with my running. It's humbling, really.
Surfing is a life path. You have to really commit... You have to let go and have faith that it's gonna work out when you take off.
If I didn't follow my passion for surfing... I would have never come up with the concept to make a wrist camera.
Even though I grew up surfing and sailing in Southern California, I was born horse crazy.
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
Surfing isn't really in my blood. It's hard to catch a big wave in Billingham.
Actually, watching television and surfing the Internet are really excellent practice for being dead.
You never came home for lunch: you just stayed doing, playing, having fun, surfing, running round.
I'm not an adrenaline junkie; I won't jump out of aeroplanes and I'm afraid of horses. I just love surfing.
I've been wearing Vans since I was a little kid. I wear them on stage, and I grew up skateboarding and surfing.
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